Winterizing a fountain in Ontario: the fall checklist we actually use

Water expands by roughly nine percent when it freezes. That one fact explains most of the damaged fountains we get called to look at in April: a bowl that held a little water, a pump left in a basin, a line that never got blown out.

Here is the order we work in when we close a fountain for the season.

Timing

In most of the GTA we aim for late October to mid November. The rule we use is simple: shut it down before the first run of nights below freezing, not after. A single light frost will not hurt anything. Three nights in a row at minus five will.

Closer to the lake in Oakville or Mississauga you can usually push a week or two later than in Caledon or King, where it gets colder sooner.

The checklist

1. Turn off and unplug the pump at the GFCI, not just the timer.
2. Drain every bowl and basin completely. Tiered fountains are the trap here. The top bowl drains easily and the hidden lip on the middle tier holds a cup of water that will split it by February.
3. Remove the pump and any filters. Rinse them, let them dry, and store them somewhere above freezing. A garage that stays above zero is fine.
4. Blow out supply and return lines if the feature has buried plumbing. Low pressure, short bursts. You are clearing water, not testing the pipe.
5. Clean the basin of leaves and silt. Organic debris holds moisture against stone all winter.
6. Cover or protect the stone. A breathable cover, not a plastic tarp tied tight. Plastic traps condensation, which then freezes against the surface.
7. Leave nothing that can collect water. Turn small bowls upside down if they come off. Plug spouts where water could sit.

Ponds are different

Natural ponds with fish should not be drained. Instead, the goal is keeping a small opening in the ice so gases can escape. A floating de-icer or a small aerator placed in shallow water does the job. The pump that feeds a waterfall usually comes out, since running water over ice in January creates ice dams that push water out of the liner.

Where people go wrong

The most common one is waiting. A warm October lulls everyone, then a cold snap arrives overnight and the fountain is full.

The second is cast stone that was never sealed. Cast stone is porous. It soaks up water through the season and that water freezes inside it. A penetrating sealer every couple of years makes a real difference.

The third is the "winter cover" bought online that does not fit. If the wind can get under it, it will eventually take it off.

Spring

Opening is mostly the reverse: uncover, clean, check for cracks or loose joints, reinstall the pump, fill, and run it for a day while you watch for leaks. If water level drops more than evaporation would explain, find out why before you put the cover away.

We handle all of this for clients on our Fountain Care plan, and the visits are booked automatically each spring and fall. If you would rather do it yourself, print the list above and tape it inside the garage. It will save you a bowl.